Tuesday, May 21, 2024
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Despite a cautious outlook, Milan Fashion Week ignites the $110 billion Italian industry.

On Wednesday, the fashion elite moved to Milan for Milan Fashion Week, which was hosted by a new designer at Moschino but took place in the midst of an unclear future for luxury.

The women’s runway collections from numerous designers, including Versace, Fendi, Prada, and Dolce & Gabbana, offer a dash of glitz and celebration in the northern fashion center of Italy.

Milan gets its chance to shine once more after New York and London’s fashion weeks, with 56 runway shows scheduled for its Fall/Winter 2024–2025 schedule until Sunday.

However, they are released against a backdrop of uncertainty in the world market for luxury clothes.

The industry is being impacted by muted growth expectations, inflation worries, a slowdown in China’s economy, and geopolitical risk.

In November, McKinsey’s State of Fashion study stated that this year’s global growth is only anticipated to be three to five percent.

That represents a decrease from the projected 5–7% for 2023.

The fashion industry in Italy encompasses apparel made of leather, accessories, jewelry, cosmetics, and shoes. It increased by 4% to about 110 billion euros (about 103 billion euros) in 2018, according on projections from the National Chamber for Italian Fashion.

Carlo Capasa, the head of the association, stated that it was too soon to predict how the business would perform in 2024. Capasa told reporters earlier this month that “it will take resilience” because it is a challenging year.

“We are aware of three conflicts, as well as the US and European elections. This year is one of change.”

However, as the glitterati congregate in the front rows, strained nerves are hardly visible.

The fashion displays on Wednesday will feature pieces from Alberta Ferretti, Roberto Cavalli, Fendi, and Diesel.

Furthermore, Capasa stated that over 100,000 attendees—including buyers, media, and brand representatives—are anticipated for this week’s exhibitions, an increase of 10% from February of last year despite the uncertain outlook.

Fashion enthusiasts will be paying close attention to Adrian Appiolaza’s debut collection for Moschino on Thursday.

After his predecessor passed away within ten days of taking over, the Argentine designer—who had previously worked at Loewe—was appointed creative director of the irreverent, pop-influenced company last month.

Veteran Gucci executive Davide Renne was brought in when Jeremy Scott resigned, following ten years in leadership. Renne passed away in November.

Franco Moschino founded the company, which is well-known for its whimsical, whimsical designs that are frequently adorned with catchphrases like “Good Taste Doesn’t Exist” or “Gilt without Guilt,” or parodies of well-known consumer brands like Barbie and McDonald’s.

Additionally, debut collections from Matteo Tamburini at Tod’s and Walter Chiapponi at Blumarine—the flirtatious, denim-heavy brand previously headed by Nicola Brognano—are anticipated.

After Chiapponi left Tod’s in 2019, Tamburini, who had most recently served as head of ready-to-wear for Bottega Veneta, took over as artistic director.

Tuesday night’s premiere ceremonies featured the debut of Maison Yoshiki, the label created by Japanese rock musician Yoshiki Hayashi, as a tribute to Milan Fashion Week’s many Asian followers.

Models paraded down the runway showcasing the all-black collection of long silhouettes with edgy, asymmetrical necklines or exaggerated shoulders, while the 58-year-old former leader of heavy metal band X Japan played the piano.

Going by his first name, Yoshiki has already made his mark on wine, energy drinks, kimonos, and even the edgy Yoshikitty Hello Kitty twin.

“Feminine but also genderless collection, flamboyant with a rebellious touch” is how he has characterized his new fashion line.

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